All Fragrances

Siren & Sailors by Jusbox is a floral boozy eau de parfum for women and men - Camden Town in the mid-2000s, and an homage to the voice that turned a London suburb into the centre of a musical revolution. Julien Rasquinet opens it on bergamot, peach and osmanthus, pours rose essential, rum absolute and a whiskey accord through the heart, and finishes it on patchouli, vanilla, suede and musk. The rose is the vulnerability; the spirits are Camden's old canal distilleries and everything else the name implies. "Whiskey-soaked rose petals, peach and sugar - beautiful, and gone sooner than you want."

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Night Flow by Jusbox is a leather fruity eau de parfum for women and men - the New York blackout of 13 July 1977, twenty-five hours of darkness that the house frames as the night hip-hop was born. Julien Rasquinet opens it on saffron, raspberry and pink pepper, runs osmanthus, davana and jasmine sambac through the heart, and lands it on leather, Indonesian patchouli, tolu balsam and ambergris. If the raspberry-over-leather structure sounds familiar, reviewers make the Tuscan Leather comparison constantly - this one keeps more of the fruit. "Raspberry and saffron over dark leather - the best performer in the house's line."

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Visionary Eye by Jusbox is a woody floral eau de parfum for women and men - David Bowie in Berlin, 1976, written by Dominique Ropion around the two differently coloured eyes that became shorthand for a plural creative identity. Bergamot, wormwood and white thyme open it bracing, Ceylon cinnamon, lavender and orris ultimate give it the cold, clean iris heart, and sandalwood, vanilla and musk keep it from ever turning sharp. Reviewers keep comparing it to Le Mâle, which is fair, and then adding that it is far more refined, which is fairer. "Cold iris and lavender - elegant, and so quiet you have to lean in."

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Good Morning by Jusbox is a citrus marine eau de parfum for women and men - Dominique Ropion's reading of Grieg's Morning Mood, the flute piece written for Peer Gynt in 1876. Sea breeze and tangerine open it the way the flute opens the score, magnolia and Egyptian violet leaf absolute carry the swell in the middle, and cashmeran with cold musk close it on the line between waking and still dreaming. At 22 percent it is the most concentrated of the house's fresh fragrances, which is not the same as the loudest. "Sea air and mandarin at first light - light, clean and almost transparent."

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Smoking Hot by Kilian is a tobacco gourmand eau de parfum for women and men - apple shisha smoked over Kentucky tobacco, composed by Mathieu Nardin. Caramelised apple, smoke and cinnamon open it, tobacco and vanilla run the heart, and bourbon vanilla, licorice and Orcanox close it out. At 4.34 on Fragrantica across three and a half thousand votes it is one of the highest-rated fragrances the house has made, and it performs the way its rating suggests. "A caramel apple held over a hookah - and it lasts all day."

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Good Girl Gone Bad by Kilian is a floral fruity eau de parfum for women - half innocent and half not, composed by Alberto Morillas around what the house calls the three sirens of flowers. Apricot-lit osmanthus, peach, neroli and bergamot open it soft, Indian tuberose, jasmine, narcissus and May rose absolute take over the heart, and amber, cedar, sandalwood and patchouli hold it down. It is the most loved fragrance in The Narcotics, and it wears far quieter than its name. "Tuberose and peach at close range - the good girl is still doing most of the talking."

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Deep Dark Vanilla by D.S. & Durga is an oriental vanilla eau de parfum for women and men - real vanilla absolute as it actually smells, which is green, smoky and faintly herbal before it is ever sweet. David Seth Moltz opens it on cabreuva, pink pepper and orchid, runs vines, green vanilla leaves and cypress root through the heart, and lands it on vanilla absolute, dark patchouli and hay. Reviewers call it a forest-floor vanilla, and that is a fair warning as much as a compliment. "Vanilla the way it grows - green, damp and a little wild."

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Radio Bombay by D.S. & Durga is an oriental woody eau de parfum for women and men - a transistor radio carved out of sandalwood, warming in the Bandra heat until the copper tubes release the wood. David Seth Moltz opens it on radiant wood, copper and cedar, works sandalwood, iris and boronia through the middle, and finishes on balsam fir absolute, coconut musc and ambergris. It is the house's quiet one, and one of its best. "Sandalwood warmed until it hums - a whisper, not a statement."

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Pistachio by D.S. & Durga is a gourmand woody eau de parfum for women and men - the house's most viral fragrance, and not the sugary one the name suggests. David Seth Moltz opens it with pistachio, cardamom and raw sugar, deepens it with roasted almond and patchouli, and lands it on vanilla crème and warm musk. It started as a hundred-bottle studio run and demand pulled it into the permanent line. "Real pistachio, roasted and salted, with patchouli underneath instead of frosting."

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Jazmin Yucatan by D.S. & Durga is a floral aquatic eau de parfum for women and men - jasmine as it actually smells in the jungles of the Yucatán, composed by David Seth Moltz around cenotes, limestone ruins and copal smoke. Water notes, passion flower and bergamot open it humid rather than fresh, jasmín yucateco and sambac with clove fill the heart, and snake plant, copal and vetiver give it the green, resinous floor. It is the house's most loved fragrance and the least perfumed-smelling. "Jasmine in wet heat, with copal burning somewhere out of sight."

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Black Magenta by D.S. & Durga is an oriental woody eau de parfum for women and men - New York at night rendered in abstract, composed by David Seth Moltz with pink pineapple standing in for club lights, orris for twilight and magenta dianthus for the make-up. Galbanum and black pepper cut the fruit at the top, orris concrete and orange flower hold the middle, and black amber, Balkan tobacco and sandalwood take it into the small hours. The house calls it loud, brash, a bit trashy and a bit classy, which is exactly right. "Pineapple under strobe lights, tobacco and amber by the time you get home."

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