RELAX & WIND DOWN

She Was An Anomaly by Etat Libre d'Orange is a woody musk eau de parfum for women and men - Daniela Andrier's answer to an AI brief, written after Givaudan's Carto proposed an overdose of two materials she then had to make wearable. Green tangerine flickers at the top, iris, vanilla orchid and a white flower accord sit in the middle, and sandalwood, cedarwood, ambergris and a great deal of musk do the rest. It reads less like a perfume than like very clean skin. "An almost transparent fragrance - the smell of skin that smells of nothing at all, done on purpose."

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Deep Dark Vanilla by D.S. & Durga is an oriental vanilla eau de parfum for women and men - real vanilla absolute as it actually smells, which is green, smoky and faintly herbal before it is ever sweet. David Seth Moltz opens it on cabreuva, pink pepper and orchid, runs vines, green vanilla leaves and cypress root through the heart, and lands it on vanilla absolute, dark patchouli and hay. Reviewers call it a forest-floor vanilla, and that is a fair warning as much as a compliment. "Vanilla the way it grows - green, damp and a little wild."

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Moonlight in Heaven by Kilian is a floral fruity eau de parfum for women and men - Calice Becker's tropical night, built on the idea of mango sticky rice eaten somewhere warm after dark. Grapefruit, lemon and pink pepper open it sharp, mango, coconut milk, rice and tuberose make the creamy middle, and vetiver, tonka, vanilla and heliotrope settle it. It is the house's warm-weather fragrance and one of its most loved. "Mango and coconut rice under a moon - balmy, quiet and a little sweet."

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