ROMANCE & PRESENCE

Black Saffron by Byredo is an oriental spicy fragrance for women and men - composed by Jérôme Epinette in 2012 from Ben Gorham's Indian upbringing, where saffron is the holy colour of monks' robes, and written about unity and inclusion. Saffron, juniper and pomelo open it, black violet, crystal rose and a soft leather accord form the heart, and raspberry, blonde woods and vetiver give it a fruity, suede-like finish. "Saffron and soft leather with a flush of raspberry."

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125th & Bloom by Vilhelm Parfumerie is a leather floral fragrance for women and men - from the house's Jazz collection, first released in 2017 as Harlem Bloom and renamed for the street, written around the hidden gardens of Harlem, flowers over brownstone doorways and in secret backyards. Angelica seed and saffron open it sharp and spiced, violet and damask rose bloom in the heart, and ebony woods and wild leather pull it into a dark, polished drydown. "Roses over a Harlem brownstone, with leather gloves on."

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Jabir by Xerjoff is a floral oud fragrance for women and men - from the K Collection, relaunched by Xerjoff in 2023 as an extrait, a tribute to the alchemist Jabir ibn Hayyan and to Arabian perfumery. Peony and lily of the valley open it, Bulgarian rose and muguet carry a refined floral heart, and Haitian vetiver, musk, Singapore patchouli, Madagascar vanilla and Laotian oud give it a deep, animalic base. "Rose and lily of the valley over Laotian oud - refined on top, wild underneath."

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Homme Anniversary by Xerjoff is a leather fragrance for men - a 2024 parfum made for the seventeenth anniversary of 17/17 Stone Label, the house's first collection, and a richer reworking of XJ Homme. Bergamot, lemon mousse and tarragon open it bright and herbal, clove, smooth leather and orange blossom form the heart, and candied fruit, moss, styrax, vanilla and tonka leave a sweet, polished trail. "Candied lemon and soft leather - a gentleman's anniversary in gold."

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1888 by Xerjoff is an oriental floral fragrance for men - the signature of the Casamorati line, named for the year the old Bologna perfume house was founded and inspired by the slow Tuscan craft of leather tanning. Carnation, clove, pepper, coriander and saffron open it with a spicy, almost cola-like sweetness, ylang-ylang, rose and neroli soften the heart, and Mysore sandalwood, amber, patchouli and a touch of birch leather leave a creamy, elegant trail. "Carnation, clove and sandalwood - an old-world gentleman in a modern suit."

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Levar del Sole by Xerjoff is a fruity chypre fragrance for women - from the Casamorati line, 2024, its name meaning the rising of the sun, built around Kannauj rose petals picked by hand at dawn while still wet with dew. Orange, apple, bergamot and lemon open it with the rose and a green edge, cardamom, violet, jasmine and lily make a powdery heart, and benzoin, caramel, tonka, musk, patchouli and oakmoss finish it soft and sweet. "Dew-wet roses at sunrise, dusted with violet powder and caramel."

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Ivory Route by Xerjoff is a woody spicy fragrance for women and men - from the Join the Club collection, written for people who take the less-travelled road, with the house keeping the full formula secret. Warm allspice and spices open it with a green, basil-like edge, and it settles onto creamy sandalwood and patchouli that many wearers find softened by vanilla and tonka - spice routes, dust and warm wood. "Spice-route warmth over creamy sandalwood - an autumn road trip in a bottle."

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Touche Finale by Jovoy Paris is a powdery floral fragrance for women and men - Vanina Muracciole's 2019 reworking of Jovoy's own Poudré, written for the ritual of getting ready, the slow dressing, the makeup and rice powder, and the perfume that comes last. Mimosa and pink berries open it, rose, jasmine, violet leaf and cedar form a soft lipstick heart, and creamy heliotrope, white musk and sandalwood finish it like face powder with a touch of almond. "The last thing you put on before you leave - lipstick, powder, perfume."

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Wind Flowers by Creed is a floral fragrance for women - the house's 2022 portrait of a dancer in motion, made with Royal Ballet principal Lauren Cuthbertson as its muse and developed over more than five years. Jasmine, orange blossom and soft peach open it, jasmine sambac, tuberose absolute and rose de mai fill the white floral heart, and iris, musk, sandalwood and a light praline leave a powdery, polished trail. "White flowers in motion - airy, graceful and quietly sweet."

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Rose Omeyyade by Atelier des Ors is an oriental floral fragrance for women - named for the Umayyad dynasty and the carved palaces of the Levant, and one of the house's first Collection Noire perfumes. Damask rose opens jammy and dark with raspberry and pink pepper, brown sugar, patchouli and guaiac wood thicken the heart like Turkish delight, and amber, sandalwood and a soft thread of oud carry it long into the night. "A rose cooked down to jam, dusted with sugar, served in a palace."

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Crying of Evil by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 is a dark amber leather fragrance for women and men - a 2022 eau de parfum from La Collection Serpent, inspired by Baudelaire's Les Fleurs du Mal and its dandy poet caught between ecstasy, pain and melancholy. Spices, pink berries, violet and tuberose flicker on top, leather, sandalwood and rose smoulder in the heart, and amber, olibanum, patchouli and musk leave a long, smoky, animalic trail. "Smoke, leather and a crushed rose - a hymn to dark beauty."

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Rose de Petra by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 is a spicy rose fragrance for women and men - a 2013 eau de parfum named for Petra, the rose-red city carved into the Jordanian desert. Rose, litchi and pomegranate open it bright and almost fizzy, Bulgarian rose takes over the heart, and cardamom, pepper and cumin dry it into a warm, spiced, slightly dusty finish. The house calls it an androgynous rose, and it wears like one. "Bulgarian rose dusted with cardamom and desert spice - a rose that doesn't play sweet."

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