SAMPLING

Khaltat Night by Attar Collection is an Oriental Vanilla fragrance for women and men - black cherry and cinnamon over a warm vanilla heart. Red apple keeps the opening crisp before the spice settles in, and patchouli gives all that sweetness something dark to lean on. White musk carries it through the evening. "Cherry, cinnamon and vanilla - the reason people ask what you're wearing."

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Hayati by Attar Collection is a Floral Fruity fragrance for women and men - Yann Vasnier's berry sundae, and it does not apologise for it. Raspberry and pineapple burst open sharp and cold, then whipped cream, honey, blackcurrant and plum turn the whole thing rich. Vanilla ice cream and white musk trail behind you for hours. "Raspberry, whipped cream and honey - a dessert with a pulse."

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Azora by Attar Collection is a Floral Fruity fragrance for women and men - Miroslav Petkov's glass of chilled litchi under bright Mediterranean sun. Bergamot and orange crackle at the top, then juicy peach and jasmine settle into something rounder and more floral. The drydown is clean white musk over soft woods. "Litchi, peach and jasmine - the easiest yes in the wardrobe."

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Annabella by Attar Collection is an Oriental Floral fragrance for women - Camille Dalbert's study in apricot-skinned osmanthus and warm milk. Oolong tea and freesia give the opening a dry, almost papery lift before milk, sandalwood and orange blossom take over. Vanilla, gardenia and white musk close it out like cashmere against skin. "Osmanthus and warm milk - soft, but never shy."

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Al Rayhan by Attar Collection is a Floral Fruity Gourmand fragrance for women and men - a sunlit bowl of tropical fruit set down in a Middle Eastern sweet shop. Lemon zest and ripe mango open bright and juicy, then tangerine folds into praline with violet, jasmine and white rose. It dries down to sugared loukhoum, soft powder and clean white musk. "Mango and rose over sugared loukhoum - dessert you can wear in daylight."

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Escentric 04 by Escentric Molecules is a Woody Floral Musk fragrance for women and men - Geza Schoen's 2017 composition around Javanol, a sandalwood molecule that keeps the radiance of the real thing but stays transparent in a way no sandalwood in nature is. Bitter pink grapefruit, juniper berry and pink pepper open silvery and green, osmanthus, rose and orris warm the middle, and mastic, labdanum and vetiver close it out quietly sensual. "Bitter pink grapefruit over a sandalwood you can see straight through."

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Escentric 05 by Escentric Molecules is a Woody Aromatic fragrance for women and men - Geza Schoen's 2020 Mediterranean summer, written in herbs and conifer rather than salt and water, around Cashmeran and its unexpected note of pine resin. Juniper, rosemary, laurel, basil and fig leaf open like a hot garden, cypress, iris and jasmine hold the middle, and Cashmeran, mastic and labdanum settle into a dry resinous warmth. "Fig leaf, laurel and rosemary over pine resin - the sea evoked through the landscape around it."

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Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules is an Amber Woody fragrance for women and men - one molecule again, this time pure Ambroxan, the laboratory equivalent of the amber that forms in ambergris. Geza Schoen's 2008 companion to Escentric 02 is velvety, faintly sweet and slightly mineral, and because Ambroxan is an exceptional fixative it holds all day where most single materials fade within hours. "Pure Ambroxan - the warmest and sweetest of the single molecules, and the one people notice."

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Molecule 01 + Patchouli by Escentric Molecules is a Woody fragrance for women and men - earthy, balsamic and quietly moody, the darkest thing the house makes. Geza Schoen used two grades of the material: Patchouli Coeur, a clean soft fraction with the camphor top removed, and an Indonesian patchouli oil layered in to give back some of the earth. Over Iso E Super it turns warm and slightly resinous, with more projection and more staying power than the rest of the line. "Patchouli Coeur over Iso E Super - cool, aloof woodiness with the earth left in."

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Molecule 01 + Mandarin by Escentric Molecules is a Citrus fragrance for women and men - a burst of juicy mandarin that hands over, as it fades, to the Iso E Super skin scent underneath. Mandarin is the instant hit, alive and zesty and radiating straight off the skin, but it is transparent and disappears fast, so Geza Schoen shaded it with a mandarin material borrowed from the flavour industry to give it juice and hold it longer. Two fragrances in one wearing. "Juicy mandarin for the first hour, soft woody aura for the rest of the day."

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Molecule 01 + Iris by Escentric Molecules is a Woody Floral Musk fragrance for women and men - the Iso E Super skin scent given a creamy, powdery weight it does not have on its own. The single addition is orris, the rhizome of the iris, aged for years before it can be used and one of the most expensive materials in perfumery. It is hard to describe alone, but it gives a fragrance a physical dimension, something to press against, and over Iso E Super it reads as quiet refinement. "Aged orris over Iso E Super - soft, slightly earthy, and the best of the line in cold weather."

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Molecule 01 + Ginger by Escentric Molecules is an Aromatic Spicy fragrance for women and men - the Iso E Super skin scent with a single ingredient laid over it. Geza Schoen chose a fresh ginger oil from the Ivory Coast because ginger is that rare thing, fresh and spicy at once, sharp and clean without any of the heat you expect from a spice. Underneath, Iso E Super warms with body heat and turns the whole thing back into an aura. "Ivory Coast ginger over Iso E Super - the volume turned up for the first hour, then the same soft woody hum."

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